Beauty Breakthroughs

The technology being put into beauty products (gene-mutating serums? lifting polymers?) is mind-boggling—frankly, it rivals NASA’s. Which sounds awesome, but without an advanced science degree, how do you know what these ingredients are doing and if they’re right for you? Experts explain the latest breakthroughs…we tell you what really works.

1. Lipsticks That Stay On and Hydrate
We’ve tried long-lasting lipsticks in the past, and yes, they don’t rub off, but your lips feel like they’ve spent a day in the Sahara. The latest crop, however, are packed with new polymers: chains of molecules linked together that, in this case, make pigment stick without feeling like glue. Cosmo staffers tried Giorgio Armani Rouge d’Armani Lipstick, $30, which claims to stay put for eight hours and keep your mouth hydrated for six (thanks to the addition of lightweight oils). After a day of testing, the color lasted past lunch…and it wasn’t until their commute home that some staffers wanted to add a layer of balm.

2. Moisture That Penetrates Your Skin Deeper Than Ever
Most moisturizers sit on top of the skin to seal in moisture—functioning like the cover on a swimming pool, which blocks water from evaporating, says dermatologist Ranella Hirsch. But some of the newest hydrators work in the opposite way. They soak into skin, delivering moisturizing ingredients to its deeper layers. We tried and loved these products, which are leading the pack with this new technology: (1) Dove Nutrium Moisture Body Wash, $3.77, cleans the skin, of course, but also deposits lipids (healthy oils your body makes naturally) down deep. (2) Vaseline Sheer Infusion, $6.25, combines three hydrators: one for the top of the skin (glycerol quat), one that settles into the middle layers (glycerin), and one that passes through to reach the deep parts (urea). (3) Estee Lauder Hydrationist, $38, has water molecules that have been organized (easy enough—kidding!) to penetrate skin better and keep it hydrated longer than the “disorganized” ones in regular water.

3. Vibrating Applicators
The latest mascaras, exfoliators, and powder foundations have been generating quite a buzz—literally. They’re actually powered by tiny batteries that make them tremble gently. In the case of the makeup products (like Lancome Oscillation Power Foundation, $48, and Maybelline Pulse Perfection, $14.95), the motion distributes formulas more evenly. For example, a loose powder smoothens out into a uniform layer on the skin, and a vibrating mascara covers all your lashes without clumping. (There’s no need to use much muscle; with both of these, make very slow, light strokes to get uni-form results.) The exfoliators, like the Neutrogena Wave Duo, $12.99, and Clarisonic Mia face brush, $149, remove old skin cells as they distribute a cleanser or scrub (whatever you decide to put onto the applicator). The good news is that they all worked! And lets just say, they’re a lazy chick’s dream come true.

4. Nail Polishes That Do Five Jobs
The newest polishes aren’t just paint anymore. Take Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure, $7, which combines a base coat, strengthener, growth treatment, color, and topcoat in one bottle. Besides creating a lacquer that is more concentrated than any other Sally Hansen polish, the developers added treatments to the formula. Calcium and sea minerals help your nails grow and get stronger, pearl protein fills in ridges, and marine kelp offers a shiny finish. Since each of these ingredients is put into tiny time-release capsules, they don’t affect the color and will keep working for up to 10 days. Here’s what we discovered: If you want bold, you’ll need to paint on two coats. But you won’t mind; the rectangle-shaped brush fans out, so just one pass (two on thumbs) spreads the paint over your entire nail. What you’ll really freak out over? The finish staying incredibly shiny all week.

5. Advanced Light-Diffusing Pigments
Think back to geology class. Remember the rocks that glimmered even under your science lab’s awful fluorescent lighting? They most likely contained mica, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide—the same stuff that’s ground up into tiny particles and put in formulas fora light-reflecting effect. Now, these particles are cut and blended in such a way that they not only give you radiance but a very natural-looking one. The idea is that your skin and hair aren’t one uniform shade, so by mixing these rock pigments and cuts, you mimic that color combination and get a realistic glow. We tried Revlon Photo Ready Powder, $12.99, which says that its pigments bend, reflect and diffuse light so that flaws are less noticeable in snapshots. Staffers posed for photos wearing their regular makeup, no makeup, and then this new powder. In the Revlon shots, noses and foreheads looked less greasy, while the rest of the face had a nice shimmer.

6. Collagen-Infused Formulas
Collagen is a protein in our skin that’s responsible for keeping it strong, plump, and flexible. Companies are now putting it into everything from anti-wrinkle creams to lip-plumping glosses to hair-thickening sprays. “When collagen is put on top of the skin or hair, it works as a humectant, which means it draws in moisture,” says cosmetic chemist Nifkita Wilson. “That moisture makes the cells swell and have more elasticity.” One fine-haired staffer tested collagen-infused Got2B FatTastic Non-Aerosol Hairspray, 55.99. After spritzing it on and flipping her head upside down, her hair’s gone-flat problem was solved.

WHEN NOT TO BELIEVE THE HYPE
Look, no formula can perform a miracle. These products overpromise a bit, so just be realistic.
• CELLULITE CURES
They contain vasoconstrictors (Ingredients, like caffeine, that dilate blood vessels), which increase blood circulation to give you a tightening, slimming effect. Unfortunately, the effect lasts only a few hours.
• BUST-ENHANCING CREAMS
These also use blood-circulating ingredients to give an instant yet fleeting tightening feeling. But “no cream is going to make your breasts any bigger or more lifted,” says NYC derm Macrene Alexiades.
• LASH GROWERS
These serums encourage healthy growth. They’re full of moisturizing ingredients that create an environment where hair can grow…but whether it does is not guaranteed. The only FDA-approved product is Latisse, for which you need a prescription.

Source: Cosmopolitan January 2010